Day 14 – Burgos to Hornillas del Camino – 21.0km

Apologies for the delay in updating the blog but we entered the ” Meseta” about 13km after leaving Burgos and there isn´t much in the way of anything there , let alone Wi-Fi

I had a great sleep in the hotel and headed out to take a tour of the Cathedral in Burgos in the morning before leaving around Midday to continue walking. The Cathedral is considered Spain´s finest Gothic Cathedral and is a Unesco World Heritage Site. It was amazing. And not just for the architecture as it contains a huge amount of art treasures and other artefacts. The photos don´t really do it justice. There was a huge marble dome at the heart of the Cathedral directly under which was the tomb of “El Cid” and his wife Jimena. El Cid’s real name was Count Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar and he was given the title of ” El Cid ” ( the leader ) by the Muslims , out of respect. He acted as a mercenary for whichever member of the Spanish Royal Family would employ him and he drove the Moors out of various places , hence his place in Spanish history. There were some documents signed by him in the museum part of the Cathedral. Inside the Cathedral was also a very ornate Renaissance Golden Staircase ( see photo ). Legend has it that Napoleon was the last person to walk down the staircase.

After lunch in the square we walked West out of the city following the river and put a few km behind us before entering ” The Meseta “. The Meseta is a high central plateau that occupies around 40% of Spain´s land mass. The Camino Frances passes through the Northern edge of this. There is mile after mile of wheat fields ( now stubble ) and quite long stretches between very small villages which seem to be inhabited by just a couple of old guys and a few dogs. There are going to be a few days ahead like this as it goes on to Astorga. It’s a case of getting your head down and putting in the miles.

It continues to be perfect walking weather with temperatures in the day in the mid 70’s although it is cool first thing. The fleece usually comes off around 10.00am. We have been lucky in having just one morning of light drizzle so far. I’m told October is the second wettest month in Galicia so we´re bound to get some later on the Camino.

We reached Hornillas del Camino around 6.30pm and were allocated beds in the overflow building for the Refugio. It is a very small and peaceful village with just one bar/restaurant at which we ate later. There was great excitement in the bar as the locals were listening to ” El Classico ” on the radio ( Barcelona v Real Madrid ). There was no Wi-Fi ( or indeed any phone signal ) so hence the late update. We returned for the Refugio 10.00pm curfew and were glad to see only two other occupants of the bunks , a couple of French ladies who proved to be non snorers. A good night´s sleep was had.

I´m glad to report the old carcass is holding out well with no blisters so far. I even think the ” Man-Boobs” and the belly are beginning to shrink : ) .

Tomb of ” El Cid “
The Renaissance Golden Staircase ” Escalera Dorada ” , Catedral de Santa Maria , Burgos

Star lantern at heart of Cathedral directly under which is tomb of El Cid
Sculpture in 14th Century Gothic cloisters

14th C Gothic Cloisters
14th C Gothic cloisters

Rabe de las Calzadas

The trail leading to Hornillos del Camino




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