Day 7 – Los Arcos to Viana – 18.6km

7.15am A bad night. The involuntary sleep study I carried out on the rather portly South African chap in the next bunk revealed a severe case of Sleep Apnoea. During the course of this prolonged study I observed that at the end of every 10th apnoeic episode he would emit a little groan and there followed a startlingly loud expulsion of intestinal gas. I have never come across this in the text books. I must have a chat with my Respiratory colleagues at Chorley Hospital when I get home. I think there’s a research paper in this.

The bunk above him was occupied by an Irishman named Eugene , who appeared to be suffering with night terrors. I had a long consultation with him yesterday as he’s quitting The Camino after 8 days with severe foot pain. I diagnosed Plantar Fasciitis and offered to supply him with something from my mobile pharmacy but he politely declined , explaining that he preferred the bottle of whisky option.

I had breakfast with Eugene and the rotund and verbiose ( both ends ) South African. He revealed to us that he is doing The Camino because he has a serious gambling addition . Judging by his choice of breakfast ( two double brandies ) I suspect the poor chap has more than one addiction.

4.00pm Decided to stop at Viana as I liked the feel of the town. I walked most of the way with Ian Hanratty from Tallaght , Dublin who was great company. He had me in stitches repeating some sketches done by an Irish comedian who I´d never heard of before named David McSavage . Once again we walked through some rolling hills and an arable landscape.

I´ve booked in to a very basic Refugio next to the Viana Iglesia de Santa Maria. It´s small ( 15 places ) and we all sleep on mats in the same room . The couple from Germany I walked with the other day are here as well as a lady from Mexico who has walked from Le Puy in France. There is also a funny little fellow from Barcelona who is walking with his daughter and reminds me of ” Manuel ” from ” Fawlty Towers “. Every time I see him he has a cigarette in his mouth. There are many nationalities here on The Camino. I´d say around 50% are Spanish , there is a good proportion from France , Germany and Italy. I´ve also met a lot of Pilgrims form Ireland but very few from the UK ( only 2 so far ). Fortunately the lingua franca is English.

I guess that we are walking through the heart of what would be called ” real ” Spain . Very few people seem to speak English and the towns and villages tend to have a very old centre with narrow medieval streets and squares. We passed through a village named Torres del Rio today which had a beautiful 12th C Church , Iglesia de Santo Sepulcro , which is linked with the Knights Templar and based on the Octagonal church of The Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.

Looking behind to Los Arcos

12th C Iglesia de Santo Sepulchro , Torres del Rio , linked with Knights Templar
Ian Hanratty in Viana

Entrance to Albergue Santa Maria

4 thoughts on “Day 7 – Los Arcos to Viana – 18.6km

  1. Gail Hooley

    The Notts element of the Dublin/Notts contingent has made it home but not sure how she got here without the aid of yellow arrows on the ground. Good job we left you before the wine fountain Danny or we’d still be there. Buen camino

    1. Thanks Gail , yes indeed the wine fountain proved a very popular pitstop ! All going well , treated myself to a Parador in San Domingo last night after a few nights in pretty basic Refugios and some long days of walking. Sunny and warm last few days and forecast more of the same. Missing you all xx

  2. Matt

    Alright pops, hope you’ve managed to catch some of the ryder cup, all good stuff. The theme has been ‘spirit of Seve’ which I’m sure will be going down well in Spain. Good blog so far, sounds like a lot of fun. Good luck!

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