Day 4 – Pamplona to Puente La Reina – 24km

7.30am , I am so happy . I slept ! . I went out for dinner with the Dublin/Nottingham girls and had a few beers , put the earplugs in and was dead to the world. Today´s another day.

7.00pm I woke at 6.00am today pleasantly surprised to have slept well. I wasn’t at all surprised to hear that ” Foghorn Leghorn” had kept half the dorm awake again. In the spirit of the Camino I gave a spare pair of earplugs to an Australian pilgrim who looked like she was more in need than I was.
I set off at 7.30am and walked through the city observing workman performing the big tidy up after yesterday’s events. It was big news on Spanish TV last night by all accounts. I was really disappointed to have missed out on seeing all the sights but wasn’t tempted to stick around today.

The Camino brought us out into the country again , the sun came out and it was a great day’s walking. Tony Dewhurst has made the valid point that I should be providing some historical perspective rather than moaning about sleeplessness, aches and pains , public disorder etc. We did pass the spot where Charlemagne’s Christian forces defeated Aigolando’s Muslim army in the 8th Century. I remember seeing a monument back in Roncevalles that marked the mass grave of the rearguard of Charlemagne’s retreating army who were slaughtered by the Basques. So old Charlemagne got little thanks from the locals for his efforts. These Basques are a feisty bunch.

We climbed a peak named Alto del Perdon where there was a big wind farm and a wrought iron feature representing medieval pilgrims , heads bent into the west wind ( see photos ). We then descended into a different landscape of vineyards and what appears to be very fertile land. I passed almond and walnut trees ( many of the almond trees had Mistletoe growing on them – see photo ) , fields full of white asparagus , maize and large red chilies. The Red Kites are a familiar sight and I will post a video if I get a close up.
It may surprise a few of you to know that I walked mostly alone today and didn’t speak to any females , Japanese contortionists or otherwise. I reached Puerte La Reina at 5.00pm and fell upon a familiar crowd of faces outside one of the bars . Staying in the refugios you meet a lot of people and there’s a great atmosphere of bonhomie and support for each other. The Basque people we meet on the road are very friendly too and often greet the Pilgrims with a ” Buen Camino ! “.

Thanks for all the comments. They’re giving me some very good laughs.

Route out of Pamplona

12th C Eunate Church , linked to the Knights Templar and modelled on The Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem
Eunate Church
Pilgrim Sculpture Alto del Perdon ( Hill of Forgiveness )

Puente la Reina


7 thoughts on “Day 4 – Pamplona to Puente La Reina – 24km

  1. Glad I had that heart attack as it got me out of something like this. Will delay the next one till you return. Worried about the repeated mention of girls of all nationalities including a granny.

  2. Blah history blah…. Lets get back to the riots and your Don Juan exploits. Just read in the wigan observer that unsuspecting weary pilgrims are often “surprised” in the wee small hours and that their protestations are lost in the cacophony of snoring. The “surprise” is more acute for those wearing ear plugs. Enjoy the evening.

  3. Danny, when your walk is complete, can we keep this blog going so that I can keep in virtual contact with your friends from the Emerald Isle. Its great stuff, very very funny. I also want an official invite to accompany you on your next trip over there!!!!!

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